Issigeac and Montpazier

While on our guided tour of the Saint Emilion area we struck up a conversation with a British couple who were in their words “drinking their way across France”.  After comparing  likes and dislikes on the wines they told us of two cities we really had to see, Issigeac and  Montpazier.

These two places are a part of a network of Bastides, or small towns built under English King regal decree across the south of France as protection and bases for farms and industries that would provide for the cities and the King.  Issigeac was originally an elite roman villa and as the romans lost control and power in France it became a Merovigian burial center, finally, around 600 ad it was converted to a Catholic monastery.  This city is like a maze; the streets wind about and intersections are at various angles. The narrow streets, constructed for carts, have no sidewalks. The original church stands today along with most of the original town.  Issigeac is surrounded by small farms that raise  variety of crops, including ducks, canards in French.  Foie Gras is a local specialty and there is even a foie gras drive that will take you by producers who sell their wares direct from the farm.  Yes, we buy and eat some, and Yes,it was very good.

Monpazier, on the other hand, is a late comer to the bastides.  Constructed in 1284 under the direction of Edward I it is recognized as a good example of English bastides construction.  Located about 25km from Issigeac it is the counter point to the random design found there.  The streets are perpendicular and wide enough for two carts, not cars – oxen pulled carts, to pass.  There are sidewalks on most streets and in the center of town is a very large public square.  The entrances were blocked with two sets of gates that could be operated independently to deter attackers.  This town, like its sister, is on the foie gras trail.  

(these two aerial views are from Wikipedia)

ISSIGEAC, FRANCE

MONPAZIER, FRANCE

My photos of Issigeac, France

This iron lift would swing from this position to one up close to the building to allow loading and unloading of heavy loads onto wagons

street view showing the later basque influence on building designs

The building his was in was an open storage area.  what impressed me was  the use of wooden pegs for fasteners.  teh small white item in the middle of the vertical is a 1" diameter wooden peg that is driven through the rafter to hold everything in place. 

Linda likes flowers and so an artistic attempt 

one of the main streets.  teh line down the middle is not a traffic divider it is the rainwater run off channel. 

white lines are not sidewalk but rather parking spaces that leave just  enough space to get a car by on the street side but no passenger is ever going to open their door. 

from this view you can see newer, original, and remodeled buildings.  The newer one is structurally from around the 1500's

there were several tunnels like this. 

This very strange flower was in one of the gardens. anyone know what it might be?

The only set of stairs in the entire village is on the entrance to the police offices. 

One of the oldest streets in the village

My photos of Monpazier

After we had parked this group of students rounded the corner and began filing into the town.  We had seen this behavior in many other areas and now understood that France is a breeding ground for noisy students who never seemed to be in a classroom. 

a main road in the town -- wide enough for two cars with parking and sidewalks

cobblestone sidewalks center of road water runoff contribute to the rustic nature of this town

The central square of town before arrival of students

Archways at the corners of the square were under taller buildings which were probably used for guards and protection.  

View of surrounding countryside.  Monpanzier is located atop a hill and has commanding view of surrounds, 

The double gate can be seen here.  the outer one lifted up into front void while about  5 feet inside was another slot for a second door to also slide up 

The public square occupied. 

While the monastery  was closed to the public, I did capture this monk walking inside.  

 

Back entrance 

St Emilion

After talking with several fellow travelers we met a visit to St Emilion village near Bordeaux was a must do trip.  The town originated when the Romans occupied the area and has been in existence since then.  The town is named after the monk Emilion, a travelling confessor, who settled in a hermitage carved into the rock there in the 8th century. The monks who followed him started up the commercial wine production in the area and we should be grateful to them for this. The wines are very good and the site is named a World Heritage Site.

The guide for our short winery tour noted that the soil is a combination of limestone and sand giving it the drainage needed for good grape production. Several of the vineyard/ wineries have their storage cellars carved into the limestone deposits. In the St Emilion area there are over 5,000 chateaux, vineyards growing wine grapes covering an area of about 500,000 hectare (1 hectare = 2.5 acres).  Not all of these produce their own wines as there is a strong co-op in the area. This area even though comprised of a great many chateaux has many larger,  and fully mechanized, vineyards differing from the Piedmont district in Italy, which also had many vineyards, but managed with manual labor, we found there. 

Inspired by the wines and the area I offer another of my short haiku for your consideration.

Amid ancient ruins

Fertile vines flourish

Yielding their fruits to callous hands

While Paris waits the news.

Originally this town was a defensive measure to stave off invasion by whomever.  this watch tower dates back to the 12th century

May is a good time to visit as everything is green and some are in bloom.  one of the streets that surround the smaller village area.  

Nature sometimes cooperates to allow great scenic shots like this one

With the many occupiers of this area it is not a surprise to a mixture of architectural styles. here is an example ofthe blending of medieval, basque and roman styles.  Yes, I was concerned for the security of the arch almaost directly over my head  

This door knocker was on a bronze door. I imagine that a strong stroke of the hand would be heard through out the residence,  

some help understanding the various sizes of wine bottles.
"Jeroboam, my jeroboam" sounds almost religious doesn't it?

Windows for the church are carved through the limestone that ade teh walls.

St Emilion is truly an international site. 

The Romans had public baths and this is one of the remaining two.

Remains of  a fourth century church building.

another view showing the buttress supports for this 20 meter high wall. 

Three sizes on display.  just need to bring your own glass, straws not allowed. 

Europeans have broader acceptance of  bodily needs as can be seen from this open and semi public urinal . the woman's toilet was inside the building with a close-able door. 

Over time nature will destroy all that man creates. 

A cute statue in a wine store courtyard.  

Chapel bell tower

an artistic interpretation

This public watering station works with an auger that will lift the water up to the spigot when the brass knob on top is spun around.  The faster you spin it, the more water you get. 

Linda and I bought some cheese, sausage, and bread for  a picnic. we had spread our coats and were enjoying our  lunch when this group arrived and shared our small lawn area.  If picnic skills were to be graded ours would be at the novice level while this group was obviously at the professional expert level.  They had tables, with covers, chairs, wine coolers, casseroles,  and a complete array of side dishes.  we ate and left. about two hours later, passing back by on the way to our car , this group was still there.  Picnicking  at its best level. 

bell tower showing the supports and stairwell added over the years. 

The birds that could be a problem for the vineyard grape are well maintained by the local cats, like this one. 

Miles and miles of grape vines 

Underground storage of wine aging in barrels of French oak (what else?) 

The vineyard/winery we visited had a huge cave area for storing their wines in both barrels and bottles. each year's vintage is stored in its own niche. 

This year was all in magnum size.

from this hillside we could see several of  the chateaux that comprise the St  Emilion wine area. 

St Emilion viewed from hillside. 

Entering the village is this view. 

This nice lady permitted her photo to be taken provided I showed her beautiful garden.  I was happy to oblige.

Bayonne

Bayonne is a relatively small town in the southwest of France on the edge of the Pyrenees.  It has been conquered and reconquered during several wars that have affected this area over time. Since it has a strong Basque history our exploration included a brief walk about town and a trip to the Basque museum along with some traditional Basque foods, sausages and chocolate

The cathedral of Saint Marie is teh most dominant building in town.  We have seen several gothic churches on our trip and this is another.  originally built, maybe started is a better phrase, in 12th century with additions in the 16th and finally the last tower added in the 19th.  While the building basics survived there were wars beginning with the French Revolution  that destroyed various parts of this building. 

Interior of Cathedral showing the stained and leaded glass windows that are so high they are nearly impossible to view from the chapel area. 

The Nive River divides Bayonne with one side showing english influence on buildings while the  other, below

shows the basque influences of exposed  structures and plaster. 

 

The Basque museum had a display of a local artist's work including these wire sculptures which when viewed as sculpture did not reveal their design until placed in a light so their shadows formed the art.  the slight breeze would  turn them to reveal the outlines. 

A basque hay wagon being admired by Linda. 

This photo shows the tough life of the basque area.  Plowing by cattle with a wood plow would make for a tiring day. 

While not noted as wine makers, the basque did produce some using presses like this. 

Along with other animals the basque kept bees for pollination and honey in these woven bee hives.  Harvesting the honey looked like it could be difficult as there was no visible access except through he bottom.

Bees wax was used for candles and this coiled candle was from a church. 

The Jews fled from Spain during the inquisition and settled  among the basque in the Bayonne area.  They discovered the secret to making the sweet chocolate we know today.  This grinding board was used to crush the beans into usable powder that could be heated and blended into a confection.  

Carvings on bins, chests, tables and such would identify the family 

I am not sure they had entertainment centers but this seating, with folding table, would certainly find a use in today's TV rooms.  OKAY, a bit uncomfortable but it does provide a place for snacks and drinks. 

A basque fishing boat used on the river..  very similar to canoes used by native Americans and Polynesians

great example of basque architecture showing the exposed structure encasing the cement and plaster walls.

This pharmacy specialized in herbal medicines.  The basque relied on herbs and nature for their medical needs.