While on our guided tour of the Saint Emilion area we struck
up a conversation with a British couple who were in their words “drinking their
way across France”. After comparing likes and dislikes on the wines they told us
of two cities we really had to see, Issigeac and Montpazier.
These two places are a part of a network of Bastides, or
small towns built under English King regal decree across the south of France as
protection and bases for farms and industries that would provide for the cities
and the King. Issigeac was originally an
elite roman villa and as the romans lost control and power in France it became
a Merovigian burial center, finally, around 600 ad it was converted to a
Catholic monastery. This city is like a
maze; the streets wind about and intersections are at various angles. The narrow
streets, constructed for carts, have no sidewalks. The original church stands
today along with most of the original town. Issigeac is surrounded by small farms that
raise variety of crops, including ducks,
canards in French. Foie Gras is a local
specialty and there is even a foie gras drive that will take you by producers
who sell their wares direct from the farm.
Yes, we buy and eat some, and Yes,it was very good.
Monpazier, on the other hand, is a late comer to the
bastides. Constructed in 1284 under the
direction of Edward I it is recognized as a good example of English bastides
construction. Located about 25km from
Issigeac it is the counter point to the random design found there. The streets are perpendicular and wide enough
for two carts, not cars – oxen pulled carts, to pass. There are sidewalks on most streets and in
the center of town is a very large public square. The entrances were blocked with two sets of
gates that could be operated independently to deter attackers. This town, like its sister, is on the foie
gras trail.
(these two aerial views are from Wikipedia)
ISSIGEAC, FRANCE
MONPAZIER, FRANCE
My photos of Issigeac, France
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This iron lift would swing from this position to one up close to the building to allow loading and unloading of heavy loads onto wagons |
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street view showing the later basque influence on building designs |
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The building his was in was an open storage area. what impressed me was the use of wooden pegs for fasteners. teh small white item in the middle of the vertical is a 1" diameter wooden peg that is driven through the rafter to hold everything in place. |
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Linda likes flowers and so an artistic attempt |
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one of the main streets. teh line down the middle is not a traffic divider it is the rainwater run off channel. |
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white lines are not sidewalk but rather parking spaces that leave just enough space to get a car by on the street side but no passenger is ever going to open their door. |
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from this view you can see newer, original, and remodeled buildings. The newer one is structurally from around the 1500's |
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there were several tunnels like this. |
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This very strange flower was in one of the gardens. anyone know what it might be? |
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The only set of stairs in the entire village is on the entrance to the police offices. |
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One of the oldest streets in the village |
My photos of Monpazier
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After we had parked this group of students rounded the corner and began filing into the town. We had seen this behavior in many other areas and now understood that France is a breeding ground for noisy students who never seemed to be in a classroom. |
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a main road in the town -- wide enough for two cars with parking and sidewalks |
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cobblestone sidewalks center of road water runoff contribute to the rustic nature of this town |
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The central square of town before arrival of students |
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Archways at the corners of the square were under taller buildings which were probably used for guards and protection. |
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View of surrounding countryside. Monpanzier is located atop a hill and has commanding view of surrounds, |
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The double gate can be seen here. the outer one lifted up into front void while about 5 feet inside was another slot for a second door to also slide up |
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The public square occupied. |
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While the monastery was closed to the public, I did capture this monk walking inside. |
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Back entrance |
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