Porthtowan and St Ives

The Cornish coast of England is where we will spend our final week of travel. This southwest corner of the island that is England has a coast line that is reminiscent of the Northern California coastline, strong currents that create sharp craggy cliffs and gentle harbors.  Our getting here was not without its drama. First our train from Paris to London was delayed by a "security breach", read that as suspected bomb in terminal. This delay caused us to  miss our connection with the First Great Western train from London area to Cornwall. After several minutes of discussion with a train agent we were provided with tickets for the last train to our destination.  Checking the departure board we learned that our train, along with every other one, was delayed.  Asking about the cause for this we learned that there was a suicide attempt on the rails. This day is conspiring to throw unimaginable delay after delay in our path.

First Great Western trains have reserved seats and since our tickets had seat numbers we incorrectly presumed that those would be our seats. A very nice couple, really that is  a compliment, who held the reservation for the same seats helped us find some unassigned seats for our trip.  During our travels we have been amazed by the courtesy and assistance provided to us by total strangers, some of whom did not speak any English. Upon arrival at the Redruth station, almost to our destination, where we expected to hire a cab for the last leg of the  trip to our hotel we were greeted by an empty parking and waiting lot; no cabs, no attendant, and one other passenger who was a perplexed as us about no cabs. "There are always cabs at this station!"... After a few minutes, seemed longer than it probably was, a single cab arrived and called for a second one. Our arrival at the Rosehill Lodges was not until 2345hrs. the manager/owners stayed up waiting for us without any apparent objections.  I think our travel weary appearance convinced them.

During the week we visited a "cute little town" St. Ives and as you view the pictures you will see that compared to Porthtowan St. Ives  is a metropolis.

As I was going to St. Ives,

I met a man with seven wives,

Each wife had seven sacks,

Each sack had seven cats,

Each cat had seven kits:

Kits, cats, sacks, and wives,

How many were there going to St. Ives?

Main street Porthtowan, Cornwall, UK

Walking is a generally accepted method of transport and as a result the signage for pedestrians is rather good.

This picture book cottage represents all that an English cottage should: slate roof, white paint with contrasting trim, carefully tended gardens with mowed lawns. Only one of its kind in PorthTowan.

you know you are in a small town when this is the payment area for beach parking.

Walking out does horseback riding but there are several designated trails for equestrians.  Walking paths also make good equestrian trails, good for the horses and riders but require pedestrians to watch where they step, experienced voice talking here.

This sign offers no assurance at all.

The National Trust is a conservation charity that controls several hundred historic and garden sites through out England. It also provides support for a large network of  hiking trails. It gets support from businesses and memberships.

The beach at Porthtowan from  one of the many hiking trails.

The tides in this area are large. this shows the rocks adjacent to the beach at low tide.

At high tide the rocks adjacent to the beach are fully submerged.

The Royal Navy Lifesaving Institute provides protection for the beach area. "always swim between the red and yellow flags" mmmmm OK.

While not huge the waves in this area prove suitable for surfers.  the water temp is around 50 degrees Fahrenheit and so wet suits are required.  

The Redruth station is larger and more friendly at 0900 than at 2300.  this is the station we left from to go to St Ives.

our transfer at St Erth to the St Ives line.  Yes the end of the line at St Erth is really the end of the line.

St Ives is a very picturesque town.  This view is from a spot near the train station. Note the tide is in-- later picts will show the harbor at low tide.

Another view of the town

One of the beaches at St Ives. There are two.

Every city has its Church. This one charges to take pictures inside. I refuse to pay for pictures of where the gods may hang out.

Side view of the Church with its inviting open gate.  I wonder if they charge for going in?  like buying a ticket to a movie?

This is the harbor beach area. not as many sun bathers as at the ocean beach.

When the tide goes out it literally leaves town. All these boats are grounded.

the small red sign is truth in advertising. it reads "the small house"

We missed the beer festival but the town was preparing for it  These kegs were labeled "cornish clough"  That sounds deadly!

We got really lucky this visit since the local farmers and craft market was in progress.  All sorts of homemade goodies including this array of candy and sweets.  the woman who made these consented to having me take her picture.   And YES for all the bacon lovers, that really is a bacon and pineapple quiche.

Two of the most gregarious ladies selling breads.  Nick's bread shop makes the best malted wheat bread ever. I am sorry I only bought two loaves as they did not last but a couple of days after everyone else tasted them.

Cheese and meats, just Cheese and meats. Nice guy, quality products and too far away to shop again...Damn!

While walking along the waterfront we were shocked  by the sounding alarm for the life boat. Moving from its berth inside the garage behind this large, heavy duty, rescue boat slowly moved out to the launch ramp. the volunteer crew came running or driving to the launch site, donned their sea suits (seen on the bow rider) and began the process of preparing the boat for use.

This tractor moved the boat down the ramp

Because tide was out the tractor pushed the boat out through the shallows to where it would float.  At that point the water was up to the bottom of windows on the tractor.  Once launched this craft fired up its engines and sped up to where it was actually planing on the ocean. 

And finally the couple that is the reason for our visit to Cornwall. Mary and Mike were married in beach wedding on a brisk but sunny day in June.  Everyone join me in offering congratulations to them.