Porthtowan and St Ives

The Cornish coast of England is where we will spend our final week of travel. This southwest corner of the island that is England has a coast line that is reminiscent of the Northern California coastline, strong currents that create sharp craggy cliffs and gentle harbors.  Our getting here was not without its drama. First our train from Paris to London was delayed by a "security breach", read that as suspected bomb in terminal. This delay caused us to  miss our connection with the First Great Western train from London area to Cornwall. After several minutes of discussion with a train agent we were provided with tickets for the last train to our destination.  Checking the departure board we learned that our train, along with every other one, was delayed.  Asking about the cause for this we learned that there was a suicide attempt on the rails. This day is conspiring to throw unimaginable delay after delay in our path.

First Great Western trains have reserved seats and since our tickets had seat numbers we incorrectly presumed that those would be our seats. A very nice couple, really that is  a compliment, who held the reservation for the same seats helped us find some unassigned seats for our trip.  During our travels we have been amazed by the courtesy and assistance provided to us by total strangers, some of whom did not speak any English. Upon arrival at the Redruth station, almost to our destination, where we expected to hire a cab for the last leg of the  trip to our hotel we were greeted by an empty parking and waiting lot; no cabs, no attendant, and one other passenger who was a perplexed as us about no cabs. "There are always cabs at this station!"... After a few minutes, seemed longer than it probably was, a single cab arrived and called for a second one. Our arrival at the Rosehill Lodges was not until 2345hrs. the manager/owners stayed up waiting for us without any apparent objections.  I think our travel weary appearance convinced them.

During the week we visited a "cute little town" St. Ives and as you view the pictures you will see that compared to Porthtowan St. Ives  is a metropolis.

As I was going to St. Ives,

I met a man with seven wives,

Each wife had seven sacks,

Each sack had seven cats,

Each cat had seven kits:

Kits, cats, sacks, and wives,

How many were there going to St. Ives?

Main street Porthtowan, Cornwall, UK

Walking is a generally accepted method of transport and as a result the signage for pedestrians is rather good.

This picture book cottage represents all that an English cottage should: slate roof, white paint with contrasting trim, carefully tended gardens with mowed lawns. Only one of its kind in PorthTowan.

you know you are in a small town when this is the payment area for beach parking.

Walking out does horseback riding but there are several designated trails for equestrians.  Walking paths also make good equestrian trails, good for the horses and riders but require pedestrians to watch where they step, experienced voice talking here.

This sign offers no assurance at all.

The National Trust is a conservation charity that controls several hundred historic and garden sites through out England. It also provides support for a large network of  hiking trails. It gets support from businesses and memberships.

The beach at Porthtowan from  one of the many hiking trails.

The tides in this area are large. this shows the rocks adjacent to the beach at low tide.

At high tide the rocks adjacent to the beach are fully submerged.

The Royal Navy Lifesaving Institute provides protection for the beach area. "always swim between the red and yellow flags" mmmmm OK.

While not huge the waves in this area prove suitable for surfers.  the water temp is around 50 degrees Fahrenheit and so wet suits are required.  

The Redruth station is larger and more friendly at 0900 than at 2300.  this is the station we left from to go to St Ives.

our transfer at St Erth to the St Ives line.  Yes the end of the line at St Erth is really the end of the line.

St Ives is a very picturesque town.  This view is from a spot near the train station. Note the tide is in-- later picts will show the harbor at low tide.

Another view of the town

One of the beaches at St Ives. There are two.

Every city has its Church. This one charges to take pictures inside. I refuse to pay for pictures of where the gods may hang out.

Side view of the Church with its inviting open gate.  I wonder if they charge for going in?  like buying a ticket to a movie?

This is the harbor beach area. not as many sun bathers as at the ocean beach.

When the tide goes out it literally leaves town. All these boats are grounded.

the small red sign is truth in advertising. it reads "the small house"

We missed the beer festival but the town was preparing for it  These kegs were labeled "cornish clough"  That sounds deadly!

We got really lucky this visit since the local farmers and craft market was in progress.  All sorts of homemade goodies including this array of candy and sweets.  the woman who made these consented to having me take her picture.   And YES for all the bacon lovers, that really is a bacon and pineapple quiche.

Two of the most gregarious ladies selling breads.  Nick's bread shop makes the best malted wheat bread ever. I am sorry I only bought two loaves as they did not last but a couple of days after everyone else tasted them.

Cheese and meats, just Cheese and meats. Nice guy, quality products and too far away to shop again...Damn!

While walking along the waterfront we were shocked  by the sounding alarm for the life boat. Moving from its berth inside the garage behind this large, heavy duty, rescue boat slowly moved out to the launch ramp. the volunteer crew came running or driving to the launch site, donned their sea suits (seen on the bow rider) and began the process of preparing the boat for use.

This tractor moved the boat down the ramp

Because tide was out the tractor pushed the boat out through the shallows to where it would float.  At that point the water was up to the bottom of windows on the tractor.  Once launched this craft fired up its engines and sped up to where it was actually planing on the ocean. 

And finally the couple that is the reason for our visit to Cornwall. Mary and Mike were married in beach wedding on a brisk but sunny day in June.  Everyone join me in offering congratulations to them.

versailles

Reviewing my postings I noticed that I had neglected to include any info or photos about our sidetrip to Versailles in France.  Such a grand palace demands to be presented.  I have a sensation that the omission was noted by the palace and it sent me vibrations to insure it was mentioned.

There are three major buildings associated with Versailles.  The grand palace, the grand trianon, and the petite trianon.  Each of these is a masterpiece by itself and together they are representative of the indulgence and extravagance of royalty.

This grand palace was originally a hunting lodge for King Louis XIII in 1623.  Its location some 20km from Paris was ideal for a short day trip.  His son, Louis XIV, liked the area and expanded the house into a palace from which he could rule France.  In 1682 he declared it to the official seat of government.

Expansions and renovations of this palace continued through the reigns of Louis XV and XVI, ending with the Revolution in 1789.  The revolution was not kind to the palace with much of its furnishings and art treasures either stolen or destroyed by the revolutionaries as a statement against the tyranny of the preceding kings.  One of the biggest losses was the solid silver throne that was used by the Kings when issuing proclamations.  It was looted following the revolution and melted down.

The Grand Trianon was constructed over a period from 1670 to 1708. This building was the “home” for the king and queen while the palace was used for official business.  Smaller in scale the trianon was positioned about ½ mile from the palace and access was via a tree lined path that crossed the field which were farmed to provide food for the royal family.

The Petite Trianon was built during the period from 1762-1768 as a separate home.  Built by Louis XV for his mistress (perhaps just far enough away the grand trianon so his wife would not notice?) it was later given to Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI for her personal use. One of the features she installed was darkening shades of silvered mirrors that could be pulled up from the basement through slots in the floor to close off the windows in her private rooms.

My overall impression of this grand palace, even missing much of the treasure that was destroyed in the revolution, is that being King of France during this period was a very good gig, for a while. The extravagance and self-indulgence exhibited demonstrated a total lack of concern for fellow countrymen which would certainly cause a revolution.

Our visit was on a rather rainy day and so the gardens were not a very nice place to visit.  Even with the inclement weather the crowds were large and so the time permitted to view each area was a bit limited.  

Our day started very early and we were not able to get coffee before boarding the train.  OK we thought, get one at a Versailles shop.  Good thought except that there were none near the train station nor on the way to the palace.  EXCEPT for your friendly and omnipresent McDonalds.  Unlike any one in the US this one had a cafe bar, with expresso and brioche, in front and the standard McD fare at a separate one in the rear. 

Panorama of the front entrance to Versailles.  we had purchased tickets ahead thinking that this would shorten our wait in line. we were wrong..

The que for entrance with tickets was VERY long. It was raining and yet there was not a sour note among all those waiting in line.  We met some people from England who were on their last day of travel and even with the rain, which for them was just another day, remained calm and carrying on. 

As you enter the main building there is this scale model of the entire facility.  Overall the building and grounds cover about 800 hectare (1 h = 2.5 acres) and the buildings alone contain 67,000 sq m.
a clear demonstration that extravagant wealth has its privileges. 

Main hall where visiting dignitaries would be greeted and entertained.  The King would sit elevated surrounded by golden statues. spatial intimidation!
Those are pipe organ pipes above  the King's seating. 

better view of the ceiling and its paintings.  All that glitters is gold. 

The theater at Versailles was an engineering wonder.  the floor was built so that sections containing set changes could be raised and lowered by a network of winches and pulleys. The left section, as you  look at it, of this model  showed the intricate network of stages and their operating works.

The Hall of Mirrors.  Impossible to get the full impact of this room because of the many people who were there.  The room was designed so that the mirrors on the left would reflect the light from the window on the right.  At night the candelabra would be supplemented with candles on holders in front of the windows. 

Just a simple  gold leaf statuette candle holder. 

These statues were adornments for one of the entrances. i could not get a good answer about what significance the monkey riding the goat had.  just seems a bit weird.  

One of the painted ceilings in the King's private area.  I can imagine the inspiration gained from looking upward to this while pondering the future and fate of a country. 

Fireplaces that wold accept 5' logs adorned with golden framed art by famous artist of the time.  One way to stay warm.

A corner of the King's chambers

The King would dine in public with his family while those who wished his attention would wait and watch from the sidelines. Probably not as good as watching a Game of Thrones, but maybe close?

In the evening while entertaining guests the King might get tired and so he would just get up and go to bed, pulling the curtains closed.  Perhaps a not so subtle suggestion that the evening was at its close.

In the game room where decisions and challenges would most likely be made.  A unique feature of this room is the array of small portals near the ceiling that could be opened to an adjacent music chamber where players would sit to provide music for the games players.  these are just visible at the top of the photo near the right side of the chandelier. I thought I had more of them in this picture than are really there. 

This painting was reported to be largest one in the world.  At  60' wide by 20' tall it would probably hold that title. 

A part of the Palace is dedicated to historical paintings depicting many of the famous and not so famous events in French history.

As with  current politics, those who report the news often tilt it toward their view. The benevolent  appearing general on the horse shown greeting the revolutionaries was infact not so generously treated by them. 

The beautiful gardens were drenched by the storm.  The overview patio provides a glimpse of these gardens

The rain that falls, falls gently on the rich and poor alike.  However, the rich can view it from covered patios and admire the handiwork of their servants.  

The grand canal is the private lake constructed just for the entertainment of the King.  It is big enough so that mock battles with not so miniature warships would be held as entertainment. 

The interior courtyard with its marble floors and gilded trims. 

Pastoral scene in the fields between the main palace and the trianons, the "private" houses of Kings and Queens, 

The Grand Trianon entrance

Private gardens of the Grand Trianon.  Queens would live in this house with their children.  When protocol demanded the family would ride in the royal coach up the tree lined parkway to the main palace. 

The length of the main house has a covered patio the overlooks the gardens and has views of the grand canal. 

The front court area would be the receiving area for guests who might visit the family.  Marble columns, granite cobblestones, gold gates, just welcome everyone to the family home. 

Servant quarters with their own garden. 

Queens bed chamber with  tables for dining and entertaining. 

Rustic kitchen where all meals were prepared for the family.  The royal kitchen in the palace was not available to visitors. 

a tunnel runs the length of the  house permitting servants to serve any room in the house without  being seen carrying trays or whatever through the house. 

What would a royal servant be without appropriate dress?  these were the uniforms worn  while working at the Trianon house. 

The Petite Trianon is a smaller and less dramatic house built by Louis XV as a place to keep his mistress.  far enough from the Grand Trianon so the wife won't be bothered  but close enough for a quick assignation.  Just gotta love the way royalty thinks. 

The Temple of Venus  in the gardens of the Petite Trianon.  A quiet get away from the troubles of royalty.  Temple of Venus at the mistress' place, really? Rather cliche isn't it?.

view of palace from the grand canal.  The sculpture in the front is a fountain that is cued to music and lights during the summer season.

Row boats can be rented for some idyllic on the canal.  

as we were leaving the palace to catch our train home, I noticed  these drive by recycle containers.  The French seem to take the recycling of material seriously. 

The Hotel de Ville in town of Versailles. While every town and village we visited had a hotel de ville, Versailles has one built to compliment, and stay in tune with the opulence of its landmark palace.